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Current and Future Homeowners


 

Retrofit Drill and Fill

Retrofitting a house means upgrading it so it will "keep the heat in". During this process, small holes are drilled between wall studs and loose fill insulation is blown into the empty cavities. The holes are patched when completed. Loose fill insulation is a material called cellulose. This material can conform to any space without disturbing the existing structure (e.g. pre-existing enclosed walls). This allows for the benefits of an upgrade without the inconvenience of a full scale remodel.

Drill and fill insulation can be installed internally through the home or externally through the outside of the home. Our trained technicians can insulate through drywall, brick, veneer, vinyl siding, lap wood siding, shipboard siding, wood based sheet siding, masonry, non-wood siding, stucco, gypsum board, plaster/lath and tile.

How do I know if I need a retrofit drill and fill?

– Was your home built between 1920 and 1960?
– During this time period, building code regulations did not require wall    insulation.
– If your home was built during this time, it is likely that the walls are not    insulated.
– Are your walls cold to the touch?
– Do you have high heating/cooling costs?
– Do you have uneven heating/cooling within your home?
– Does your furnace/air conditioner seem to run too much?
– Do you notice mold growth in/on your walls?
– Walls that lack insulation allow for condensation build-up which promotes    mold growth.

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Spray Foam

Spray Foam is widely considered the most versatile, energy-efficient insulation on the market today. Great Northern carries a variety of densities for nearly every conceivable application.

Polyurethane foam is your best choice when you want the most comfortable, energy efficient structure available. Polyurethane foam seals better, has better R-value per inch, and adds structural strength better than any other product or combination of products.

Offering one of the highest R-values per inch of any insulation material available, spray foam insulation maintains economic competitiveness with rigid insulation and air/vapour barriers. When specified as the primary air barrier for a house, it can form a monolithic envelope around the structure, sealing angles and corners as it flows into gaps and cracks ensuring a tight seal around all penetrations. Spray foam insulation often eliminates the need for an additional vapour barrier since it controls the diffusion of moisture through the walls. Furthermore, spray foam does not absorb water, which means that it inhibits mold growth.

Spray foam insulates small spaces where other forms of insulation are unable to reach. This allows for draft-causing spaces to be filled and the home to stay warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. The end result is lower utility bills for the homeowner. Consequently, homes that are insulated with spray foam have a higher resale value.

Spray foam can used to insulate most unenclosed cavities including walls, ceilings, crawl spaces, attics, flat roofs, cathedral ceilings, floor undersides, garages and those harder to access areas.

We employ trained professional installers, offer 3rd party warrantees, and adhere to the strict standards and specifications set-out in each manufacturer’s product guide.

How do I know if I need spray foam insulation?

– Do you have high heating/cooling costs?
– Do you have uneven heating/cooling within your home?
– Does your furnace/air conditioner seem to be ineffective?
– Do you notice mold growth in your basement? Spray foam can act as a    vapour barrier and prevent condensation. Moreover, spray foam does    not absorb water.
– Do you notice drafts in your basement or footings?
– Do you have vermin or insect problems? Infestations can occur due to    unfilled cracks in your foundation or building structure. Spray foam can    fill these open crevices.

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Blown Fibre Insulation

In certain applications, blown-in insulation makes for a cost-effective alternative to spray foam. In the most common applications, loose fiberglass is blown into your attic through a large hose. This form of insulation allows for uniform coverage will fill into any awkward or small nooks. In most cases, blown fiberglass can be installed over pre-existing insulation. In addition to these advantages, loose fiberglass is also fire resistant.

How do I know if I need blown fiberglass in my attic?

– Do you have icicles forming on your roof during the winter?
– Do you notice that there are certain areas on your roof where the snow    melts faster?
– Does your roof form ice dams?
– Is your ceiling cold to the touch in the winter and warm to the touch in    the summer?
– Do you have high heating/cooling costs?
– Do you have uneven heating/cooling within your home?
– Does your furnace/air conditioner seem to be ineffective?

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Fibreglass Batts

Fibreglass Batts are an extremely common form of insulation made from extremely fine fibres of glass woven together into thick pads. These pads are called ‘batts’ and are typically 16” or 24” so as to fit into standard sized cavities.

Fibreglass batts are made from sand and recycled glass, so they are naturally non-combustible. They do not absorb or hold water. Further, batts are sound absorbent material and act to reduce noise pollution.

Batts can be installed in open areas or unenclosed cavities that require insulating. Examples of these areas include attics, ceilings, and unenclosed wall cavities.

While these materials are available in your neighbourhood do-it-yourself store, improper installation can cut their effective R-values from 50-100%. Trust our qualified professional installers to ensure your hard-earned dollars are well spent.

How do I know if I need to install fibreglass batts?

– Is your home newly built with open cavities?
– Does your roof form ice dams in winter?
– Do you notice that there are certain areas on your roof where the snow    melts faster?
– Do you have high utility bills?
– Do you hear noise pollution through your walls/floors from other rooms?

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Old Insulation Removal

At Great Northern, we make the laborious job of insualtion removal easy!

Why might a homeowner consider removing old insulation?

–  Over-insulation. Having too much insulation in your attic can restrict    airflow and discourage proper ventilation. These issues can potentially    lead to mold and mildew problems.
– Damage & Contamination Issues. Many factors may contribute to    damaged insulation including leaky roofs, animal nesting, and animal    droppings.
– Upgrades. You may consider removing your old insulation to upgrade to    something with a higher R-value. Insulation upgrades frequently save    homeowners money in utility bills and contribute to a more energy    efficient home.

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Air Sealing, Draft Proofing, & Vapour Barriers

Air sealing: Air sealing reduces air bypasses and air leakage that occurs through outer walls, ceilings, windows, doors, and floors. Draft Proofing seals gaps and cracks that allow warm or cool air to escape. A home without air sealing may experience increased heating and cooling costs, decreased energy efficiency, and poorer air quality as small cracks allow for the entry of pollen, dust, pests, humidity. Air sealing and draft proofing installations can be completed on any crack or space where air may pass through. Some of these spots include:

– Baseboards
– Sump pump lids
– Openings in attics
– Between un-insulated attics or basement
– Living areas of the house
– Tops of foundations
– Door frames
– Windows
– Water pipes
– Vents

Vapour barrier: Vapour barriers are typically polyethylene sheeting installed to restrict diffusion of moisture through walls, ceilings and floors. In cold climates insulations may not be enough to prevent heat from escaping – vapour barriers are designed to prevent air from escaping through or around the insulation. These barriers prevent deterioration of walls due to moisture and prevent mold formation. Vapour barriers are installed on the warm side of existing insulation (subject to accessibility).

How do I know if I need to install Air Barriers and/or Vapour Barriers?

– Do you have frost and ice forming on cold surfaces?
– Does your basement feel damp?
– Do you have places where dust seems to be collecting?
– Are there odours throughout your home?
– Do your windows fog?
– Is there wood rot or decay within your home?
– Are your pipes sweating?
– Are there places in your home where water leaks or is dripping?
– Is the paint in your home peeling, blistering or cracking?
– Is there any discolouration, staining, or texture changes throughout    your home?

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Fire Protection

Great Northern Insulation is your one-source professional fireproofing contractor, offering cementitious, mineral fibre and intumescent fireproofing.

Passive fire protection can be defined as protective materials that prevent or delay the transfer of thermal energy to the structure. Spray-applied fire-resistive materials are commercially available in both cementitious formulations and as sprayed mineral fibre products.

Great Northern is a qualified applicator of Grace Monokote, AD Fire Protection Systems and Carboline products. Monokote MK-6 and AD Type 5 spray-applied fireproofing for interior structural steel, with their proven in-place performance, are the most widely-used fireproofing products in the world.

Mineral fibre products also offer good thermal resistance (R-value), of particular importance for sidewall fire separations where up to a 2-hour rating is required. Typically, this would require 2.5” thickness minimum, and in many locations an R-value of 8-12 is required for the building. Only mineral fibre fireproofing products can attain this level of insulating value (with 2.5 - 3.75” applied thickness). In addition to fire protection and thermal insulation, these products also possess acoustic properties.

At Great Northern, we can provide the technical expertise you require to assist you in the selection of a fireproofing product for any needs you may have.

How do I know if I need to install a Thermal Barrier?

– Does your house/basement/garage/barn have exposed metal?
– Do you have uncovered spray foam that will not be covered with    drywall?

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